Now for the lowering stuff. Ryan unbolted the wheel, tie rod end, and shock, before popping the lower ball joint free to remove the spring. | 
Here, you can see why these DJM springs we got from Stylin' Concepts will lower the truck. They are visibly shorter than the factory springs but will still provide a nice ride. The new springs are installed just like the factory ones, so make sure you clock the spring, so it sits in the pocket correctly. This will make sure the truck sits level from side to side. |
The kit comes with new shocks, but you still have to install the bushings and the mounts. There are two different length mounts that come with the shocks for this application, and we used the shorter of the two. A little bit of grease was used to help them slip in the bushings. | 
Here is a tech tip, straight from the guys at Streetshock: Make sure the threads are free from any paint before you slide them up in the truck, because this will help you install the upper Nylock nut a little easier. |
Sometimes, the main shaft of the shock will spin when you are installing the upper nut. If this happens, grab the top of the shock with a pair of pliers. Do not clamp them on the shaft below the nut, because this will mar the surface of the rod that will in turn kill the seal, rendering the shock useless. | 
Moving to the back, the leaf spring hanger has rivets that hold it in place. There are many options on how to get these out, like using an air chisel, grinder, or a big drill. |
But, we opted to use a plasma cutter first, then attack it with an air chisel. Now, before we started cutting, the bolts in the front and rear of the leaf spring were removed. | 
Here is a side by side of the two hangers. Not only does the DJM hanger move the end of the leaf spring closer to the bottom of the bed, it also moves it back just a hair to keep the driveshaft from becoming too long. |
Much like the hanger, the shackle also moves the end of the leaf spring up toward the bed of the truck, which provides the drop. | 
The holes in the frame were a little small to fit the provided hardware, but a Uni-bit took care of that. |
The parking brake cable on the driver side is attached to the factory spring hanger. Rather than disconnecting the cable and pulling it out of the hole, simply make a cut in the hanger large enough to remove the cable. Use extreme care when cutting the spring hanger to avoid damaging the cable. | 
Place the parking brake mounting bracket between the spring eyebolt and the spring hanger on the driver side only. Install the spring bolt and attach nuts. |
The rear shocks are shorter than the factory ones and feature a larger shaft and specific valving for the lowered application. | 
Once everything was bolted up, the truck was set on the ground and the all the hardware was tightened. |