Project Dark Horse, Part 5 - Big Brake Install

After removing the cap of the master cylinder, the pistons on the stock calipers were squeezed back in. Because we are installing new pads that are thicker than our used set, this step is a must.

After a couple of taps with a hammer, the stock rotor was slipped off the studs.

Just like the front, these rotors are directional, so make sure the arrow points the right way.

Once the rotor was in place, the new pads were placed in the caliper, so it could be bolted back on.

After the bolts were tight, we were done with the rear brakes.

Now to get all of the air out of the system so it can work properly, we started with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger-side rear). We used the ol' pump the pedal three times and hold style of bleeding. Just keep an eye on the level in the master cylinder, because you don't want it running dry and sucking more air in the system.

We bled both screws on the Wilwood calipers, starting with the outer one and moving to the inner. A piece of tube and a soda bottle will catch any fluid coming out to keep your new parts and the work area clean.

When we had a nice firm pedal, the tech strapped on the wheels.

Before we put the truck on the ground, we snapped this picture to show you just how big these binders really are. Remember, this is a 23-inch wheel.

Out to the parking lot we went to "bed" the brakes, after a few very slow-speed stops to ensure everything was cool. We went out to a deserted stretch of road. Making a series of hard stops from 40 mph down to a slow roll will burnish the brake pads and remove the protective coating from the rotor. We don't want to come to a complete stop because this will make hot spots on the rotors, which can lead to a pulsating pedal.

Here is a close-up of the rotor, after the bedding procedure.