Here is the new quick ratio steering gearbox from AGR that is engineered for street performance. It features a 12.7:1 gear ratio, the fastest available, firm race car-type valving for precise handling and excellent road feel. | 
This is the box for the enthusiast building a pro touring ride or a true sport truck. Check out the bitchen billet four-bolt cover. Who says you can't dress up a gearbox? |
Here is a cut-away shot from AGR that gives you a great view of the triple roller bearing arrangement that supports the sector shaft at both ends. | 
The P-series pump is designed to provide increased flow and pressure for 2WD light trucks and SUVs. The increased flow provides for better response in quick steering situations, and it is a perfect addition to the gearbox. |
OK, now that you know what these parts are all about, let us show you how to install the thing properly. The first thing on the to-do list was removing the pitman arm to see if the splines are the same from box to box. To get the pitman arm free from the center link, Brian removed the cotter pin and castle nut before persuading it with a hammer. The shock from the hammer blows is usually enough to break the press fit on the joint. If not, you will need a removal tool. | 
To get the arm off of the box itself, you will definitely need a removal tool like the one pictured. The box features splines on a tapered shaft, and when the bolt was tightened at the factory, it pretty much locks the components together. |
Once the arm was off, we took it over to the AGR box and did a test fit. The technicians at AGR assured us our pitman arm would work, and they were right--man, these guys are on it. In the shot you can also see the sector shaft has a master spline, so the arm will go on only one way, so keep that in mind for later on when you have to install it on the truck. | 
We will be installing a matched pump unit from AGR because of the higher load on the power steering pump due to the quicker ratio of the box and our wide wheels. To do that, we had to get the stock pump assembly off the block. The shroud and fan came off first to access the drivebelt. |
Using the proper tool, Brian unloaded the tension on the idler pulley and removed the belt. | 
The pulley is next. Again, the proper pulley removal tool was used to get it off. If you don't have one, ask a friend or call around to a few auto parts stores. Some of them have a tool loan program that can really save your ass in a pinch. |
Once you have the pulley off, you can get to the rest of the nuts and bolts holding the power steering pump. We would recommend taking the pump and bracket off in one unit because one of the nuts is shrouded a bit by the manifold, and it would cause undue frustration. Get a drain pan ready, because once you remove the lines, the fluid is going to drain out. | 
Moving over to a bench, we started tearing apart the P.S. assembly, so we could separate the pump from the reservoir. The bracket was the first thing to come off. |
With that off, all the rest of the hardware could be removed. There are two studs that require a 15mm wrench, and the large inlet insert has a 1-inch shoulder on it. | 
The inlet hardware has a spring hiding below it, so be aware when you are taking it out, so it doesn't end up in your eye or something. |
Once the hardware is removed from the pump, you can separate the two pieces by pulling on the snout of the pump with a slight twisting action. It's going to take a little bit of patience to get the pump out of the reservoir housing. Fight the urge to pry the stuff apart with a screwdriver, because if you bend the semi-delicate housing, it will most likely leak. | 
The reservoir will be reused, so now is the time to clean it and maybe even freshen it up with a coat of paint. We didn't have time to let the paint dry, so we just hosed it down in the solvent tank and started the reassembly. |
The new pump from AGR comes with all the proper O-rings, but you have to install them. It's no real rocket science here, so just place them in their proper locations. | 
The smaller ones located on the back of the pump can fall out during the assembly, but a light coat of grease will hold them in place if you are having trouble. |