In preparation of painting we wanted a smooth back wall. We removed all the trim pieces, including this piece located directly under the rear window. Several metal studs were left on the body and had to be ground off then filled with body filler to give the truck the smooth, custom look we wanted. Note also the filled lower B pillar. When we removed the doors we found a slight dent. It was small yet covered most of the pillar. We used a dent puller on the dent then packed it with body filler. |
Once the dent is filled with body filler, an orbital sander is used to smooth out the finish. A thin coat of primer paint is then applied to the exterior sheetmetal, and a light tack or guide coat of paint is sprayed on to make certain the metal surfaces and the entire dent have been smoothed. |
The complete guide coat process is shown in this step. Basically, it&8217s a very light misting of black spray paint on the metal. Then a long sanding block is used to sand off the guide coat. Pictured are a number of block sanding tools. The two flat blocks are for sanding flat surfaces. The paint roller on the right is wrapped in sandpaper and used on curved surfaces. We wanted the sheetmetal to be perfect so we elected to use a brand new pair of fenders that are available through Golden State Pickup Parts. |
A perfect paint finish may require many hours of block sanding to get a metal surface that’s straight and without waves. Heed our words when we repeat that a slow, careful effort when performing these steps will be well rewarded in the end. After all, you don’t want an exterior finish that has imperfections. Despite the fenders being brand new we still checked the smoothness of the metal surface. After the metal is misted with paint, it&8217s time to use the long sanding blocks. Use slow, long, back-and-forth movements to ensure the long block is moving straight over the metal surfaces. If any black paint remains on the metal once you think you are done, you have a low spot. If you sand off the guide coat and the original primer coat and reach bare metal, you have a high spot. Either way, take your time and do it right. |
Even brand new fenders are susceptible to imperfections. Once the guide coat is block-sanded away, several small depressions on the fenders are revealed that need to be filled before applying the final paint finish. |
There are holes in the sides of the truck’s bed that need to be filled with metal. After the holes were plugged, the excess weld slag is ground smooth. A bodyman’s hammer and dolly are also used to pound out the dings and dents in the truck’s bedrails. Don&8217t do substandard work in these areas for once the new paint is applied shoddy workmanship will be instantly exposed. |
Once all of the bodywork is complete, you can mask any areas as needed. We’re finished with the cab so it’s masked in preparation for spraying. Masking areas that will not be sprayed protects against potential overspray. We&8217ve already sprayed the engine compartment, so we completely seal up the engine with masking tape and paper to prevent any body color from seeping in. |
Because this isn&8217t a body-off restoration, the interior has to be completely masked before we painted the doorjamb area. If there are any rips or tears in the masking paper, no matter how slight, or if you forget to cover all the seams thoroughly with masking tape, some amount of paint may end up inside the cab. |
After the body is completely masked off, all the metal surfaces still to be painted, including this door, are wiped off with a 3M tack cloth. This cloth contains a tacky adhesive that is designed to pick up any foreign material such as dust or debris that has landed on the metal surfaces. This step is vital to achieving a good, quality paint job. It&8217s advisable to go over the truck two or three times with the tack cloth to be sure you have thoroughly cleaned the surface of any dust particles. |
One of the difficulties of painting doors or fenders taken off the vehicle is holding them in place so that you can spray them all at one time. Spraying every piece of metal in the same session ensures the entire vehicle will be the same color. If you paint the doors and fenders one day and paint the cab on another day, odds are the color pigment will be slightly darker or lighter. Each time you mix the paint reducer and hardener the blend will be different. You will never duplicate the combination so slight color variations are guaranteed. California Street Rods has several specially built fixtures used to hold items such as doors, fenders and hoods in the optimal position for spraying paint. |
Speaking of paint, reducer, and hardener, PPG supplied us with all of the Regency Red color, hardener, and reducer we needed to transform Operation Retro Ride into a stunning showpiece. The truck required 2 gallons of paint to completely cover the reworked sheetmetal. |
Before the actual spraying, the paint was thoroughly mixed and shaken according to PPG’s instructions to achieve a quality finish. Every single piece of exposed sheetmetal was covered. Application was easy and done according to PPG instructions. Now finished, the truck has decidedly taken on a whole new attitude. |
Our beloved 1979 Chevy, affectionately dubbed Operation Retro Ride, is in the final stages of becoming a true rolling art form as we continue our series covering the older, classic sport trucks. Transforming our hunk o’ metal into a showpiece takes than simply bolting on the latest and greatest body parts. It takes hard, physical, manual labor to accomplish the next set of tasks we face.
Now is when many sport truck restorers lose patience with their projects because this is the bodywork and final body prep stage. Once these tasks are completed, the body will be lavished with several coats of PPG paint.
Follow along as we take you through these mind-numbing, finger-wearying tasks. And keep in mind that the more body preparation you do at the outset, the better the end result will be. All the effort spent at this stage will prove well worth the extra time.