Back in the May issue, in the story titled "Silverado Styling Staples," we reported how Drew Brothers Customs (DBC) in Arizona tackled some of the more common modifications, such as shaving, painting, and swapping out body parts. The story focused on a fullsize GM truck in the beginning phases of a mild custom build. We say "mild" because other than the shaved tailgate handle, the truck was customized with mainly bolt-on GM parts. Since this is our S-10 Special, we will dive deeper into the custom realm by getting into shaving all the handles, adding door solenoids, and molding in the steel roll pan. These are the kinds of modifications that have almost become standard in the S-10 class. S-10's are usually used as a guinea pig because they are an entry-level truck that, with some good searching, can be bought for a steal. All we have to say is, Thank goodness for that. If everything cost twenty of thirty grand, not many people would be cutting them up.
The parts list for this story is pretty short, consisting of a door kit from AutoLoc and a steel roll pan from AIM. Other than that, it's all about patience and talent. For the latter, we looked to the brothers Drew, the self-proclaimed merchants of cool, and Scott Deheart. Scott is one of many experienced guys out there slinging mud in the hot Arizona weather while Rob and Rich Drew chow down at the waffle house. This S-10 we will be following along with happens to be Scott's personal ride; we were lucky enough to catch him the last time we were in Arizona and asked him to wait for us.
We watched as Scott deleted all the exterior handles on his Dime using every bit of patience he had to keep the stuff from warping. There are a few key points to a nice shave job. One is to get the patch panel in with the least amount of warpage to the metal. That means taking your time and tack-welding the area instead of running a continuous bead; this will keep the heat to a minimum, and less heat equals less warpage. Next is to apply the initial coat of filler as smooth as possible; the smoother the base, the less you will have to sand, and nobody likes to sand. Thirdly, learn to mix and spray primer and paint. Last but not least, you need all the right tools and equipment. We don't care how well you can weld - if you don't have a long block, you'll never get the area straight. So you can go out and buy all the tools or pay the professionals. Either way, get to customizing your truck.

1. As you can see, the bulky...

1. As you can see, the bulky bumper and unsightly handle clutter the back of this truck up. The bumper and spare tire are removed along with the tailgate.

2. The AIM stamped-steel roll...

2. The AIM stamped-steel roll pan is coated on the backside with 3M's multipurpose rubberized undercoating. This stuff is designed to protect the metal from corrosion. It also has properties to protect the pan from rocks that are thrown from the tire while driving.

3. The factory paint is removed...

3. The factory paint is removed at the body line before a few screws are installed to hold it in place.

4. Then Scott starts tack-welding...

4. Then Scott starts tack-welding the seams. This is the area where you need to be patient and take your time; weld only one small tack at a time. Do not weld an area that is warm to the touch. Move from one side to another; this will cut down if not prevent warping all together.

5. How do ya get in? Once...

5. How do ya get in?
Once the handles on the truck are gone, you still need to get the door open. The easiest way is to install this Shaved Door Handle Kit from AutoLoc. The key elements of the kit are AutoLoc's PowerPull solenoids, which feature a proprietary retention spring setup that adjusts the pulling power required for each pull. The kit also includes 1/16-inch pre-stretched stainless-steel cable, wiring, all mounting hardware, cable guide, heavy-duty backup button, remote brain, two key fobs, and detailed instructions.

6. Scott removed the latch...

6. Scott removed the latch assembly from the door and crimped the cable where the old rod used to go.

7. The bracket is attached...

7. The bracket is attached to the solenoid. It will provide the ground, so only one power wire is needed to activate the pull.

8. Pick a mounting position...

8. Pick a mounting position where the solenoid can pull on the latch without interference from anything in the door.

9. Using the bracket as a...

9. Using the bracket as a guide, the holes were marked and drilled.

10. The cable is installed...

10. The cable is installed through the loop on the solenoid and crimped.

11. With that, the unit is...

11. With that, the unit is installed in the door and a wire is run along the same path. Scott chose to feed the wire through the factory grommet in the doorjamb.

12. The brain is hidden behnger-side...

12. The brain is hidden behnger-side kick panel and wired up per the instructions.

13. Tape and a marker are...

13. Tape and a marker are about the best way to make a pattern.

14. Make your filler panel...

14. Make your filler panel fit tightly into the hole to keep you from having to fill large gaps and in turn keep the heat down.

15. The area that has to be...

15. The area that has to be welded must be stripped of the paint to get proper penetration.

15b.

16. This is where you have...

16. This is where you have to be patient. Scott says, "Weld the panel in with a series of alternating spot-welds."

17. Intermittently check your...

17. Intermittently check your progress to see if the area is sucking down. If it is, use a hammer to pound it back up and slow down your welding.

18. Once it's all welded,...

18. Once it's all welded, a grinder is used to remove the excess and prepare it for the filler.

19. A fiberglass-based filler...

19. A fiberglass-based filler is used on the initial coat because it has high build properties for shaping and great weather-resistance.

20. After it cures, the area...

20. After it cures, the area is initially shaped with 40-grit paper on a long block, then it's finished with 80-grit.

21. Once Scott was happy with...

21. Once Scott was happy with the basecoat of filler, he spread a finish coat of polyester-based filler and initially sanded it with 120.

22. For the final sanding,...

22. For the final sanding, a dual action (D/A) sander with 180 is used to feather out all the edges and prep the surface for primer.

23. Everything was taken into...

23. Everything was taken into the booth and hosed with a healthy coat of Dupont euro primer. Scott says this stuff has great fill properties and sands easily.

24. When the primer cures,...

24. When the primer cures, all the areas are blocked straight. At this point you shouldn't have any major low or high spot to contend with if you did the previous steps correctly, so a couple of passes should do the trick.

25. After that, the truck...

25. After that, the truck is wheeled back into the booth so the color can be reapplied.

26a. There you have it: a...

26a. There you have it: a clean truck with smooth panels and lots of cool, and the doors open at the touch of a button.

26b.