When we bought our Tahoe, one of the first priorities was to get rid of the work-truck front end and start getting the body straightened out for paint. One option was to order up a complete '98 update kit from a company such as US Auto Parts. It's a simple install and comes with headlights, and even pigtails. But since this was a border-patrol vehicle and there were dents on the bumper, hood, and both fenders, which meant they either needed significant bodywork or they needed to be replaced, we opted to take the front-end swap a bit farther. Once again we looked to US Auto Parts for answers.
The Escalade front-end conversion kit comes complete with steel hood and fenders, grille and grille brackets, bumper assembly, headlights and turn signals, and even new tow hooks - in other words, everything you need to do the job, since the core support doesn't have to be altered. US Auto Parts even offers billet grilles and cowl-induction hoods as options for the conversion. Since we would have the front end off, we also opted to install a smooth fiberglass wiper cowl from Street Scene Equipment at this time. Now we would be brand-new from the firewall forward, cutting down on our bodywork significantly. Follow along as we breeze through the install, and check the source box for more information on the Escalade kit from US Auto Parts.
 1. With the truck pulled into...  1. With the truck pulled into the shop, the first order of business was to remove the hood. The hinges were unbolted from the fender and the hood was lifted off and thrown into the junk pile. We removed the hinges and sanded and painted them since they would be reused later. you can also send them out to be cad-plated if you have more time. |  2. Next to go was the old...  2. Next to go was the old work-truck grille. The parking lamps were removed first to access the hidden bolts. Then the headlights and buckets were removed. |  3. We pulled off the bumper...  3. We pulled off the bumper filler panel, accessing the upper bumper bolts. |
 4. The six main bumper bolts...  4. The six main bumper bolts were removed next, freeing the stock bumper. |  5. The several bolts that...  5. The several bolts that connect the fenders to the inner wheelhouses were then buzzed out. |  6. And the 'houses were quickly...  6. And the 'houses were quickly followed by the two bolts that connect the fender to the cowl and upper and lower bolts that connect the front of the fender to the core support. |
 7. The last two fender bolts...  7. The last two fender bolts were accessed through the doorjamb. |  8. On the driver side, the...  8. On the driver side, the bolts that connect the computer stand to the fender must also be removed to free the fender; the same goes for the battery box on the passenger side. Threaded clips are used throughout these fenders and must be pulled off and reused on the new fenders. |  9. Since the truck was no...  9. Since the truck was no longer going to be "Appliance White," we used the pressure washer, along with Scotch Brite and soapy water, to get the remaining front-end panels as clean as possible. |
 10. A full day later, this...  10. A full day later, this is how we were looking. We removed as many parts as possible from the firewall, inner fenders, and core support, then shot all of the sheetmetal in semi-gloss black. It won't win any engine bay awards, but it was a huge improvement and will save a ton of time later when we paint the truck. |  11. The new Escalade fenders...  11. The new Escalade fenders were hung by reinstalling the three top bolts first. None of the fender bolts were tightened completely until the hood was on and each fender could be aligned accordingly. |  12. The wheelhouse bolts were...  12. The wheelhouse bolts were reattached next. |
 13. Followed by the doorjamb...  13. Followed by the doorjamb bolts and lower bolts. |  14. Our newly painted hood...  14. Our newly painted hood hinges were installed onto the new fenders. |  15. Now the hood was set into...  15. Now the hood was set into place and bolted atop the hinges. These also remain loose because they have a bit of adjustment as well. |
 16. The height of the hood...  16. The height of the hood is determined by the rubber stops that screw into the core support. At this time, the hood was lowered and the fenders were tweaked until the best overall fit was achieved. Then all the fender bolts were tightened down. |  17. On the passenger side,...  17. On the passenger side, the computer stand was bolted back up. |  18. The battery box was bolted...  18. The battery box was bolted back up to the driver side. |
 19. The doorjamb bolts were...  19. The doorjamb bolts were the last to be snugged down. |  20. Next to be installed was...  20. Next to be installed was the wiper cowl. We fit it into place, checked the clearance with the hood, and used some self-tapping screws to hold it in place. |  21. Wiper cowls are notorious...  21. Wiper cowls are notorious for not fitting well, but we were happy with the results of the Street Scene unit. |