CST Lift Kit on a 2004 Nissan Titan - Towering Titan

21. We enlarged the mounting holes in the coilover bucket just enough for the CST bolts. A droop stop is installed on the coil bucket to prevent metal-to-metal clanging between the coil bucket and the upper control arm.

22. With the CST coil spacer attached to the factory piece, the modified coilover is slid home and bolted on up.

23. The antisway bar endlinks must be extended to compensate for the new height.

24. Install misalignment spacers in the uniball, and pass the mounting bolt through the CST steering knuckle upper mount. The lower control arm pinch bolt has already been installed on the lower CST mount.

25. We're almost there. For our next trick, we'll reattach the antisway bar and tie rods.

26. The factory unit bearing hubs take their place in the CST steering knuckles using the OEM hardware. The brake rotors slide on, followed by the retaining clips. Brake calipers bolt up next.

27. The CST brake lines take their place between the frame mount and the larger gap caused by the lift kit. Since braided stainless steel is more rigid than OEM rubber, we'll enjoy firmer brakes on our taller Titan.

28. The frontend is reassembled and ready to play in the dirt. Before we bolt up the new rubber, a few other details need attention.

29. To avoid driveshaft vibration, we'll drop the 'shaft's center carrier bearing. Start by freeing the carrier bearing from its perch atop the OEM crossmember.

30. With the driveshaft set aside out of the way, bust out the reciprocating saw and slice a 5-1/2-inch section out of the carrier bearing's mounting channel. Be sure to center the cuts between the carrier bearing mounting bolts. Although lowering the carrier bearing minimizes the chance of driveline vibration, each truck is a little different. If the driveline still vibrates, the rear pinion angle can be adjusted using angled shims between the leaf pack and spring perch.

31. Bolt the 'shaft back into place using the CST drop bracket. Done.

32. CST also offers a Deaver spring pack to take the place of the stock leaves, but we decided to try the skinny-wallet option with a rear lift block and longer U-bolts. If wheelhop becomes a problem, we'll spring for new springs.

33. During rear block installation, we detached the brake lines and parking brake hardware from the rear axle. Remounting these items completed the rear block installation.

34. We wanted ride quality to match the aggressive looks and proud new height of the Big T, so Fox Shox took their place under the rig. Fox dampers are a common sight under high-dollar Trophy Trucks and aggressive prerunners.

35. With a killer new truck, a CST lift, race-quality shocks, and aggressive BFG meats, Boyd Coddington death blow wheels were the perfect encore. Check out Boyd's web site for these and other bitchin' wheels.

36. CST warns that some wheels require a 1/8-inch spacer to clear the brake calipers - check this and remedy accordingly before taking your proud new ride on its maiden voyage. BFGoodrich's Mud-Terrain K/M is a good choice for a variety of conditions and exhibits acceptable pavement manners. BFG's Baja-proven track record boosted our confidence further. Time to bolt 'em up and go play!