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2000 Chevy Truck Supercharger Installation - Blown Big-Block
 BEFORE  1.We removed the mass airflow...  1.We removed the mass airflow sensor and air temperature sensor from the stock intake. We made sure neither of the sensors were damaged by simply placing them away from our work area.  2.GM's first-generation Vortec...  2.GM's first-generation Vortec big-block has a bonnet that covers the top of the intake. The bonnet also functions as a small air reservoir for throttle response and air noise reduction.  3.By pulling out all the stock...  3.By pulling out all the stock air intake, we had plenty of room for our supercharger installation.  4.Removal of the accessory...  4.Removal of the accessory belt was next. They only make a six-rib belt so long, so if your truck has a vacuum pump, you will need to use the longest 6PK made. We found after throwing a couple belts that the 6PK3055, Goodyear Gatorback part number 4061203, can hold up to a great deal of punishment. We've heard both good and bad about the tread design, but we've had good luck in this scenario.  5a.Two bolts from the A/C...  5a.Two bolts from the A/C compressor are removed along with one of the bracket bolts just above the power steering unit on the driver side of the engine. An aluminum bracket with longer bolts is mounted to the top of the A/C compressor.  5b.  5c.  6.Before putting the bracket...  6.Before putting the bracket in place, it's a good idea to tighten the two bolts that assemble the lower bracket to the supercharger housing bracket. These two bolts are damn-near impossible to get to after the supercharger is in place. Put the mounting bracket and bolts in position, but do not tighten the others yet.  7a.Before putting the supercharger...  7a.Before putting the supercharger in position, a couple things will need to be moved. The fuel vapor eliminator may need to be moved if your truck has a rectangular coal can. We added some vacuum line to the device so it could be relocated.  7b.  8.The antilock braking unit...  8.The antilock braking unit will also need to be moved. After pulling out the four bolts that held it in position, we lightly pushed on the unit to make it move up and out of the way. It's a good idea not to bend or force the unit too much because you wouldn't want to hinder any of its operation. The least amount of manipulation left us with one bolt hole hanging over the edge of the mount bracket. We felt that the other three bolts were plenty strong enough, so we drilled and tapped the three new mounting holes.
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