When it comes to four-cylinder power mods, finding a combination to make significant power change can be quite a challenge. When you find a modification that will make a difference in power, it normally will set you back a few bills. So what is the best bang for the buck? We did a quick price comparison and found that one of the biggest horsepower gains can be made with the best value per horsepower. We compiled prices found on the Web and print media, plus data from a variety of dynos, to obtain this information:
Average intake cost ($200) / horsepower (10) = $20 per horsepower
Average exhaust cost ($400) / horsepower (10) = $40 per horsepower
Average programmer cost ($400) / horsepower (15) = $26 per horsepower
Average blower ($5,000) / horsepower (90) = $55.55 per horsepower
Average NOS $600 / horsepower (80) = $7.50 per horsepower
Of course, the truth is, horsepower costs money. An NOS is the only one of these items that requires fueling, which means the power supplied by an NOS is pay as you play. The bottle refilling will obviously change the cost per horsepower over the course of time on the NOS unit. This information is only good for evaluating the costs of horsepower. All these products are not good side-by-side comparisons because of the different benefits each component provides.
An NOS is a quick and easy way to add power to your truck. As you probably already know, it works extremely well on applications that are good candidates for NOS. What motors are good candidates for NOS? An NOS is a catalyst that allows your engine to burn more fuel efficiently. The added fuel increases the size of the explosion in the combustion chamber, which makes more power. The increased explosion adds the pressure built up in the cylinder. The fuel available at the pump is only good for a certain compression ratio before detonation occurs, so lower compression is good. Most modern vehicles are made to work safely on modern fuel, so we decided to install an NOS universal kit on a '98 S-10 with a 2.2L four cylinder motor. Here's how the install went.
1.Here is the NOS kit. We...
1.Here is the NOS kit. We did upgrade to a quick-change bottle bracket for this install so that refilling the bottle will be a cinch in the future; it's also much more appealing. We will also be installing a purge kit.
2.First we need to mount our...
2.First we need to mount our bottle and brackets. We chose to mount the bottle in the bed, since it would be covered. Loosely assemble the brackets to the bottle, place in the bed, mark the bolt hole locations, and drill. Make sure to look under the bed to ensure you're not drilling into anything vital, such as wires, brakes, or fuel lines.
3.You will need to drill a...
3.You will need to drill a hole in the bed for the feed line. After that simple task, run the nitrous feed line from the bottle, along the frame, and up to the engine compartment. The line can be cinched to the frame using zip ties, or if you prefer, rubber cushion clamps.
4.We drilled the intake duct...
4.We drilled the intake duct so the Soft Plume fogger nozzle could be installed. The nozzle needs to be as close to the intake throttle body as possible, with the opening on the nozzle directed into the throttle body to ensure the fuel and nitrous find their way into the engine.
5.Here, we assembled the purge...
5.Here, we assembled the purge kit with the nitrous solenoid for the system, attached the feed line, and installed the purge tube. The whole assembly was then secured to the firewall with a solenoid mounting bracket. Use Teflon paste, not tape on all fitting connections. Make sure the Teflon paste does not get into any of the lines.
6.The fuel solenoid was installed...
6.The fuel solenoid was installed near the heater box, since the fuel supply will come off the Shrader valve on the fuel line, which is on this side of the engine compartment. The fuel filter was already installed on the solenoid.
7.We then attached the short...
7.We then attached the short red and short blue lines to their respective solenoids. The red line supplies fuel and the blue line supplies nitrous to the fogger nozzle when connected.
8.Next, we needed to mount...
8.Next, we needed to mount the nitrous activation switch at the throttle body. This required us to fabricate a bracket, since this is a universal kit. It's not too difficult, but does require some time.
9.You want the switch mounted...
9.You want the switch mounted so the throttle is in the wide-open position when the switch is closed to activate the system.