CST Lift Kit on a 2000 GMC Sierra - Reverse Sleeper

7.The final step for the upper control arms is the ball joints. The ball joints slide into a relief and are secured with four bolts. Start all bolts and locking nuts first prior to tightening them.

8.The two upper-control-arm bolts were loosened and removed. Bill then slid the factory arm out and installed the new CST A-arm in place. The factory bolts were reused to attach the tubular arm.

9.Changing the spindles to the new 4-inch-lifted versions is a simple bolt-on process. After disconnecting the antilock-braking sensor wire, the spindle is removed from the lower control arm. Three nuts are removed from the spindle assembly. The new spindle is slid into place and held on with the factory hardware. Care should be taken to ensure that the antilock-braking sensor and wire are free from obstructions. Secure the assembly with the three bolts by tightening them per the manufacturer or factory-torque specifications.

10.The factory lower controls arms are retained with this kit. The new 4-inch-lifted spindle was reconnected to the lower ball joint.

11.The new lift front springs were prepared. The factory rubber donut was applied to the top of the spring. Bill used a little bit of black electrical tape to hold the spring and donut together during installation to avoid slippage.

12.Bill then slid the spring into the upper spring pocket, making sure to correctly position the spring end and bushing. The garage-floor jack was used to hold the lower A-arm in place as the spindle was connected to the ball joint in the upper A-arm. Once the ball-joint bolt was securely tightened, the cotter pins were installed as required. For the front-end portion of the lift project, it's all downhill from here.

13.The antisway bar, outer tie-rod end, and brake rotor were reconnected to the installed lifted spindle assembly. The Fabtech front shock was slid into the stock factory position and tightened with the provided hardware. Other than putting the tires back on, the front portion of the project was completed.

14.The rear lift kit from CST Performance Suspension consists of 4-inch-lift blocks and extended leaf-spring U-bolts.

15.Bill started by loosening the four factory U-bolts. He again used the 1-inch lash strap as a safety catch between the leaf spring and rearend housing. The 4-inch lift blocks were placed between the leaf spring and the rearend housing. Care was taken to position them correctly, as these blocks have the correct pinion angle built into them.

16.With the rearend housing firmly reconnected to the springs, the Fabtech rear shocks were installed to complete the suspension side of this story.

17.Most lifted trucks use 15-inch wheels with tall sidewall tire combos. That's a fine look, but we wanted less side wall so our truck would have better cornering abilities. We selected a set of Weld Racing 18x8.5 Evo Velociti 6s for both front and rear. Here, the rim is trial-fit for size and clearance. Our offset was perfect for what we had in mind. If we didn't want to run the fender flares and widen the stance of our truck, we would have ordered rims with an inch more backspacing.

18.When the new wheel/tire combo is bolted up, approximately 1 inch of tire will stick out of the wheelwells. This is where the Stillen Flares will come in handy. We took our fender flare set to Starbuck's Customs in Riverside, California. Justin Jones has worked on other projects with us before, and we asked him to paint-match these to the factory-red paintjob. As always, the paintwork turned out great.

19.After taking rough measurements, trial-fitting the fender flare in place is the next step (actually this step was completed before paintwork). Here, the flare is placed against the body.