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Removing GM Small Block Engine - Gen II...
Removing GM Small Block Engine - Gen III V-8 R&R Basics
Part I: Learn How TO Remove THE Latest Small-Block Engine, THE Gen III Ls1 V-8, From Gm Trucks AND Suvs
May 01, 2005
10.Pull the brake booster hose from the brake booster housing and start taking off the many ground straps (this one goes to the firewall) between the engine and vehicle. Mark the location holes and wiring for install, as these are numerous and thinking you will remember their location is flawed.
10.Pull the brake booster hose from the brake booster housing and start taking off the man
11.Start removing the wiring harness by pulling the throttle position sensor (TPS) and alternator control plugs. These are traditional connectors that have a tang that needs to be slightly pulled away from the clip body before the two connectors can be carefully finessed apart.
11.Start removing the wiring harness by pulling the throttle position sensor (TPS) and alt
12.Next, the air temperature sender and solenoid evaporator control wire connectors are removed.
12.Next, the air temperature sender and solenoid evaporator control wire connectors are re
13.Now remove the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system tube (some call this the EGR tube) on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. To do this, squeeze the gray sliding tab on the side of the connector into its body while wiggling it to the side of the mounting tube and then lightly pulling up. Once off, you should look at the connector from the inside; you can just barely see the locking tab slid over inside the body. This step is mainly done if you are removing the intake, which we will do here, as this if the first time removing the engine and chances of you finding the proper wires behind the intake are slim. Intake R&R is easy, too.
13.Now remove the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system tube (some call this the EGR tube) o
14.One of the connectors that needs to be released to get the harness out of the way is this main connector. The best way to separate these two connectors is to use a radiator hook tool to pry under the small locking tang.
14.One of the connectors that needs to be released to get the harness out of the way is th
15.Now, remove the main coil electrical connectors on each side of the engine by pulling the side pin out and pulling up on the connector while lifting the lock tang. Now is also a good time to unhook the main alternator power wire (a 10mm nut) on the back of the alternator.
15.Now, remove the main coil electrical connectors on each side of the engine by pulling t
16.On all Gen III V-8s, there are two knock sensors under the intake manifold that are connected to a jumper wire that comes out under the intake at the back of the engine. This photo shows how much wiring is running through that area. Because of this, if you don't know what the connector feels like, you're probably not going to get it unhooked. On the first engine removal, plan on taking the intake off to get to this and a few other connectors back there - maybe next time you'll be able to do it blind. With that said, we'll stop here and cover the rest of the engine removal in next month's issue.
16.On all Gen III V-8s, there are two knock sensors under the intake manifold that are con
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