2005 Chevy Silverado Truck Performance - Couch-Potato Power
JBA AFTER-CAT EXHAUST 
1.We used man's best friend to start the removal process of the stock exhaust system. It only took one cut to remove the stock exhaust. | 
2.There are four O2 sensors to contend with. We removed a couple of ours, but this isn't essential. You can move the cats around to make room for manipulating the driver-side header and manifold, but you should zip-tie the cats up so they don't pull on the wires of the O2 sensor. | 
3.The exhaust system uses all the stock hangers and readily bolts together. | 
4.A little anti-seize compound on the flange bolts ensured no rust fusion was going to destroy the treads on the fasteners. | 
5.The muffler was marked for flow, so installing the muffler in the correct orientation was made that much easier. | 
6.Behind the muffler are the third and fourth pieces to this incredibly easy after-cat exhaust system. The stainless after-cat exhaust system is hard to pinch down with the supplied exhaust clamps. After the system was in place, we welded our 3-inch tubing together to ensure it didn't leak or come free. We suggest you do the same. If you don't have a welder, then take the system to a muffler shop and have them buzz the system together. | 
7.We really liked the design of the tip, but it stuck out kind of far for us. Like the diehards we are, it was impossible to leave well enough alone, and we thought it needed modifying. | 
8.With the use of our trusty Sawzall, we cut 5-1/2 inches out of our exhaust tip then welded it back together with our Millermatic 251. | |
AEM INTAKE 
1.We used AEM's Brute Force dry element intake to replace the stock unit, so we wouldn't have to worry about corroding the MAF sensor with oil. | 
2.Most every electrical connector uses a locking system. We removed the plastic lock and then pulled the connector from the MAF sensor. | 
3.For removal of all of the band clamps, this water-line brace broke the stock intake free from retention, so we could pull it free from the engine compartment | 
4.We were very careful with the MAF sensor, so we didn't hurt it. This honeycomb segment evens out the flow of air over the heated element, so the engine can determine how much air it is drawing. | 
5.After removing the stock airbox and tray, we bolted down the AEM air shroud. This will keep the engine compartment heat away from the filter and provide a cool air chamber for the intake to draw from. | 
6.The mesh side of the MAF sensor faces the filter. The stock MAF sensor is idiot-proof because it's marked with the direction of flow. | 
7.We bolted the MAF sensor assembly to the Brute Force air tube and 90-degree elbow that attaches to the throttle body. | 
8.The filter simply fit over the velocity stack, and the install was complete for all the hard parts. | |
SUPERCHIPS PROGRAMMER 
1.To make sure we had no issues with retuning our ECM, we set the parking brake to turn the headlights off when the ignition was off. We also closed the doors and didn't touch any buttons on the truck, unless we were told to by the Superchips programmer. This would ensure that nothing would drain voltage from the battery and the programmer received plenty of power. | 
2.Then, we plugged the connector from the programmer into the OBD II port inside the truck. | 
3.As soon as we plugged the programmer in, it started giving instructions. | 
4.Then, it wanted us to turn on the ignition and wait for the programmer to save the stock program. | 
5.After selecting max power programming on the programmer, accepting the changes, and confirming we wanted the ECM programmed, the programmer started rewriting the management software, contending with the drivetrain. The dash lights went crazy for a minute, while the program did its thing. Don't freak out when this happens, because after it's done, everything will go back to normal. You'll just have more power at your fingertips. | |
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