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Front Speakers(Before) |
1. Stripping the doors panels was the first order of business. The front door panels in the Chevy will have the mids and tweeters in them. The rear door panels only cover the speaker, because it is mounted in the door itself. | 
2. The front speaker install was super basic. Some small holes were drilled in the panel to allow the screws to pass through and attach to the supplied fasteners. |
3. After The Mounting System Was Adapted To The Door Panel, The Tweeter Simply Snaps Into The Mount. | 
4. Removing and reinstalling the door panel grilles is easy, but the mesh isn't very strong, so be careful or you will break the tabs off of the grilles. |
5. From there, we ran the speaker wires into the cab and mounted the crossovers under the dash, where the tweeters were setup using the -3dp pole to prevent the highs from over-running the mids. | 
(After) |
Rear Speakers
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1. The stock speaker grilles are held into position with tabs that are formed from the grille material. Be careful with these tabs; they are fragile and will break off easily. |
2. A small hole was needed to fit the tweeter into the rear door panels. The stock speakers fit high in the grille segment, so we mounted the tweeter below the mid. This may not be optimum for speaker placement, but it was easier than cutting the area under the grille out and fabricating a new mounting system. We think the stereo sounds great from the back seat, the front seat, and from 300 feet away! | 
3. Again, since the grilles are fragile, we carefully put them back on and ran the wire from the door to the inside of the B-pillar. |
4. Pulling the speaker wire through the stock door wiring loom can be done by fishing a thin but rigged piece of wire through to attach the speaker wire to. We pulled the two speaker wires through separately because both sets of speaker wire would hang up and cause drag. | 
5. We mounted our crossovers in the B-pillars with double-stick tape. |
[After] | 
Amp & Sub Box
1. With the speakers installed and the wires ran to our amp mounting location, all that was left was to cut the wires to fit and attach them to the amp. We wanted to install our amp in a location that would make for the easiest method of installation. The choice to mount the amp under the rear folding seat provided easy power wiring for both the amp and sub box. Plus, getting to the amp for tuning adjustments is as easy as folding the rear seat up. |
2. Ducts from the back of the cab extend down and vent under the rear seat. They allow air to pass out of the cab when the doors are being closed to prevent pressure build in the cab. Also, they are designed to reduce the pressure that builds in the cab from driving at highway speed with one window down. The MTX Thunderform sits above these ducts and tucks neatly behind the seat. | 
3. Two Thunder 4500 10-inch subwoofers are used in the Thunderform sub box and can be purchased un-powered or powered. The un-powered Thunderform can be powered by a 500-watt amp, and the powered unit is equipped with a 200-watt amp. Even though the powered version is only equipped with a 200-watt Class D amp, the sub box works awesome. |
4. As you can see, hooking up the powered sub box is simple. Power, ground, remote switch, and two RCAs, and voila! You're done. | 
[After]The Thunderform sub box fit perfectly, all nestled in its mounting location. Part of box form is three protective elements that keep the woofers from contacting the seat and allow the notes to push through the void areas. |