1. Here are the parts we found to completely remove the factory sound system and replace it with kick-ass aftermarket parts without having to cut, drill, or fiberglass anything; we didn't even need butt connectors! | 
2. Obviously, to replace the door speakers, we needed to remove the door panel. We started by removing this upper plastic piece that covers the mirror hardware. The idea is to get your fingers behind it and pull straight back because this will free the hold the three clips have on it. | 
3a. There are two screws that hold on the panel: One is located in the lock/handle assembly and the other is under the door pull/armrest right by the door handle. The screws are hidden with a little cover that is easily opened with a small flat tip. |
3b. | 
4. With all the screws out, all you have to do is pull out on the bottom of the panel to pop the clips free. When you have them all loose, lift up on the panel and unplug the window/doorlock wiring. | 
5. Here, Adam had already unscrewed the four 10mm bolts that hold the factory speakers in and unplugged the harness. |
6. The Direct Connect harness from Scosche allows us to simply plug the Pioneer head unit directly into the factory harness with no cutting. Scosche also offers the speaker hook-ups, as well. This really makes the job much easier than having to cut and splice everything together, plus it can be put back to stock by simply removing the harness. | 
7. Because the stock speaker has the plug on the outside, Adam cut a small X in the plastic and rerouted the wire inside the door, so it will hook to the Pioneer speaker that has the plug on the backside. As you can see, the Scosche harness has the proper Toyota plug on one side and the correct-size ends for an aftermarket speaker on the other. | 
8a. Here is a comparison shot of the factory and Pioneer speakers. Look how small the stock speaker's magnet is. We thought the magnet fell off at first. It's pretty easy to tell the Pioneer speakers will handle more power and play a wider range of sound. You can also see that the factory speakers have a proprietary mounting tower molded to them, and the reason why we would need a conversion mount, like the one we got from Taco Tunes. |
8b. | 
9. Taco Tunes is the only company we found offering these high-quality speaker mounts. The mounts are made of high-density plastic that will outlast particle-board (MDF) that can crumble and mold over time. They come with new hardware and feature a 3-year warranty. | 
10. With the provided hardware, Adam bolted up the Taco Tunes mount into the factory holes. |
11. Thanks to Scosche, there is no mistaking the positive and negative because they are sized properly, positive-large, and negative-small. | 
12. With that, Adam mounted the speaker with self-tapping screws he fed directly into the plastic mount. Taco Tunes doesn't pre-drill these because of variances in aftermarket speakers. | 
13. That completed the front door, after he reinstalled the door panel. Make sure to hook up the power window switch. |
14a. Moving to the rear, there are a few screws that have to come out before you can pop the panel off. One is hiding inside the pull pocket, one is by the door handle, and there is a bolt holding on the seatbelt at the bottom. | 
14b. | 
14c. |
15. Before pulling on the panel to pop the clips, go ahead and remove the rubber that runs down the side of the rear door. When you are taking off the panel, make sure to feed the seatbelt through the top hole to prevent damaging the panel. | 
16. After taking out the hardware, Adam pried out on the speaker because it was glued in. | 
17. Because the factory wiring is too short to reroute inside the door, Adam used a drill bit to create a small channel to run the wire through so it wouldn't crush it. |
18. Just like the front, the mount will be held on with the provided hardware, and the Scosche harness was plugged directly to the factory wiring. | 
19. Again, just like the front, the screws were driven straight into the plastic mount. With that, Adam put the door panel back on and reinstalled the rubber. | 
20. OK, moving on to the head unit, the hardware for the radio is hiding under the heater controls. Use a small screwdriver to pry out from the bottom. This is enough to get it out. |
21. Here, you can see that there are four clips, one in each corner holding this panel on. | 
22. There are four 10mm bolts holding the support bracket of the head unit to the dash. After you get these out, all that hold it in are six clips evenly spaced around the panel. | 
23. So, all you have to do is pull out on the unit, and it will come out. |
24. The new Scosche plate has the mounting properties to hold the clock/hazard light assembly, so you have to take it out of the factory piece. It is held in by little clips that can be freed with a small flathead. | | |