2001 Ford F150 Air Intake and Programmer - Ford Power Package

Boost Intake Install
1. The Fram Boost Air Intake system is constructed out of mandrel-bent aluminum, featuring all TIG-welded construction with reinforced tabs and a smooth powdercoat finish for long-lasting durability. Hooked to the end will be Fram's new Dryflow filter that is washable, oil-free, and filters down to 1 micron. If you don't think that is small, a human hair is 100 microns thick. Because the filter requires no oil, cleaning is a snap and much faster, and there is no chance of an over-oiling situation.

2. The upper inlet pipe is the first to go on. Fram provides step-down couplers to make the transition from the throat of the throttle body to the pipe. The hose clamps were just snugged up at this time, so the pipe will stay in position, but still allowed us to move it around just a bit. Once everything is installed, we'll come back and tighten it.

3. The MAF sensor was bolted to the stock assembly by two 10mm bolts that have to come off, so we can transfer the MAF to the Fram adapter.

4. The intake kit comes with this adapter and gasket that are joined with the provided hardware to the inlet side of the MAF. Tighten all of these bolts good, but don't overdo it. The nuts are serrated, so they shouldn't back off.

5. Swap the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor out of the stock unit and slide it into the grommet on the main tube.

6. After you have installed the step-down couplers onto the MAF assembly, per the instructions, it can be slid onto the main tube. Make sure the airflow arrow on the MAF points toward the throttle body.

7. The second inlet pipe has a support bracket that fits underneath a tab on the power steering reservoir. You have to loosen all three 10mm bolts to give it enough clearance to get in there. Once you slide it in, snug the bolts back up, but again don't tighten them all the way just yet.

8. The heat shield will mount to the stock grommets in the fenderwell, where the original air cleaner went, but you have to install these adapters. There should be two grommets here, but at some point, we lost one-not to worry, we have one on order from the dealer.

9. The heat shield also uses two bolts on the cruise control assembly. These are T27 Torx bolts. Just take them out, drop in the shield, and put them right back in. This part you can tighten now because there is no adjustment to be had.

10. The provided hose can be attached to the IAC check valve and the unit reinstalled.

11. It's kind of tight working back there around all the wires and such, so after you are done messing around back there, check to make sure you didn't inadvertently unplug any vacuum lines.

12. The IAC and crank case breather lines hook right up to the Fram unit and are held on with hose clamps.

13. There's no real rocket science here; just pop the filter over the end of the intake tube, but don't push on the end of the filter. Use the base to slide it on, so you won't crush or damage any of the pleats.

14. With everything installed, plug in the MAF and then check for clearance of all the parts and adjust if need be. Ours was good to go, but if one of the tubes was hitting something, we could move it around because we haven't tightened everything all the way yet.