1. Obviously, if you are installing a roll pan, you have to either remove the factory bumper and brackets or strip off your old roll pan. Also, take off the tailgate at this point. | 
2. Examine your new parts for damage and always test-fit prior to painting. Remember, Sir Michaels does not accept part returns that have been modified or painted. | 
3. Sir Michaels products are of incredible quality, and very little prep work is needed to get this part ready for paint. Prior to painting, you may choose to smooth the recessed license plate pocket area by welding the seam solid. |
4. These pans are nicely welded, but you should make sure to knock down any little imperfections in the weld with a dual-action sander (D/A) with 80-grit sandpaper. | 
5. The new Colorado pan required no body filler, so John used Sikkens Metal Etching Epoxy Primer to prevent any moisture from wicking its way down to the metal and creating rust. | 
6. After a full day of dry time, John scuffed the primer just a bit and then cleaned it off with a no-lint rag soaked in pre-cleaner. The pre-cleaner will remove any silicones, wax, grease, tar, or any other contaminant that might have floated over to the piece. The stuff is made to flash (dry) quickly and leave no residue, which will help ward off things like fish eyes and give you a great finish-provided you can spray, that is. |
7. For a professional look, make sure to put paint on the back as well as the front. | 
8. After the paint was dry, John came in and laid a few slick coats of Sikkens HS Plus clear. | 
9. Once the clear had dried, it was time to get this thing on the truck, but there were a few little steps needed beforehand. Here, John installed the supplied plastic license plate screw mounts. |
10. You will need to drill a hole for the new light wires to pass through the rear of the bed floor. This will keep the wires up and make for a cleaner install. Nobody wants to see wires dangling from the bottom of the truck. | 
11. You will have to splice in the wiring for the license plate light into the factory harness, so the stock plug needs to be cut free. | 
12. You can use the crimp-style butt connectors, but John prefers to solder and heat-shrink the wires. |
13. With the help of an assistant, install two screws, one in each end and leave them a little loose so you can still move the pan up and down. | 
14. Reinstall the tailgate and check the alignment. You should have about a 1/2-inch gap between the gate and the pan. | 
15. This is why you leave it loose. John's gap was a little big, so it was lightly tapped up. Once he was happy, he partially opened the gate and installed the rest of the tech screws. |
16. There are two brackets that go between the framerails and the roll pan that dictate the alignment of the pan and the rear quarters. Install them per the instructions and tighten completely once you are happy with the fit. | 
17. Now for the hard stuff-install the supplied license plate light and license plate. |  |
Tow It
Sir Michaels offers everything you need to tow a trailer like a Class 3 hitch and flip-down license plate holder. The roll pans are built around these components, so you know it will all fit together | | |
The Final Word
Here it is. Once the job was complete, the Sir Michaels steel roll pan fit like a glove. Not only does it look better than the stock bumper, we can still hook a trailer to the truck with the tow package Sir Michaels sells.