1968 Chevrolet C10 Transmission - Hauling Ass On The Highway

4a. The converter was installed by sliding it on the shaft and slightly spinning it so the splines could have a chance to line up. One thing to note here is the converter has two sets of splines to line up with: The first is the splines of the main shaft, followed by the splines on the pump, so make sure you feel it index into both sets.

4b. With that, the unit was jacked up into position, and a few bellhousing bolts were installed.

5. Before we removed the jack, we slid the crossmember back under the tailshaft. Look at the series of holes that run along the framerail. These trucks came with many different tranny options from the factory, so there will be no need to drill new holes for most swaps.

6. Because the 200 shares the same cooler line ends as the 400, all we had to do was thread them into the housing. They are even in the same location, so we didn't have to bend the lines at all. While we were still under the truck, we installed the rest of the bellhousing bolts, dipstick tube, and torque converter bolts.

7. Moving up top, it was time to hook the TV cable to the carb. The first step was to install this little adapter bracket to the Holley carb. This would give us the proper tab to hook up the cable and the right amount of stroke so the trans works properly.

8. Part two was installing this bracket under the rear bolt holding the carb to the manifold. This bracket provides the mount for the TV cable.

9. Once those brackets were installed, we snapped the end of the cable into the rear bracket till we heard the tabs click. Then, we hooked up the cable to the carb.

10. To set the initial adjustment of the cable, we throttled the carb to wide open, then we pulled the cable with a pair of pliers till it was all the way out and then locked the set screw.

11. CPT sends a new yoke with the 200, but it featured a different U-joint size than what we had. Most parts houses sell offset U-joints to cure this problem, but we have a better idea.

12. We took our new yoke and driveshaft to Laszlo at Drive Shaft Masters to have him change the end and install some new U-joints. He started by grinding off the welds on the end of the shaft, so he could press in the new end.

13. With that, he installed the front and rear U-joints, along with our new yoke.

14. Then, he took the shaft to a truing machine, where he made sure the shaft was good to go before he welded in the new end. Afterward, he took it to a balancing machine, where he got it to spin nice and smooth.