2004 Chevrolet Silverado Aftermarket Brakes Install - Short Stopping

What's In The Box?
On the right is Baer's EradiSpeed+1 setup for the front and the rear of the Chevy. The new rotors are 2 inches larger than the original equipment in the front and 1 inch larger in the rear. Besides just being larger, the rotors are zinc-coated, cross-drilled, slotted, and cast with quality iron materials for improved performance. You should go out and buy some new pads and some lube, but that is all you need besides the tools.

Part One: The Front-End
The tear-down and installation are pretty much the same for the front and rear. So, we will focus on the front and just hit the highlights for the rear. After the truck was safely secured on some jackstands, the wheels were removed, followed by the calipers. Remember not to let the calipers hang from the brake lines. Instead, tie them up with some wire.

The anchor bracket that holds the caliper needs to be removed from the back of the spindle. The factory bolts have a thread-locking compound on them, so you might need a breaker bar to bust them loose. There are two little caliper sliders that index the brake pads properly. You will need to retain those, along with the factory hardware, and transfer them to the new parts.

With that, the rotor should slide off of the hub with no problem. If it is stuck, hit it with your hand a few times, which should be enough to dislodge any rust or crud that's making it stick.

With one of the old brake pads and the C-clamp, retract the pistons back into the caliper. This will give you enough room to slip the new pads in later.

The new 14-inch rotor will slide on the hub just like the factory unit did. The only thing to keep in mind is these rotors are directional, so make sure the left on is on the driver side and the right is on the passenger side. Thankfully, Baer marks the rotors with stickers and stamped arrows to ensure proper installation.