Cool trucks are cool trucks, no matter the shape, size, make, or model, as long as they have been customized. If stock trucks were all the rage, then this magazine would look a lot different, but luckily that is not the case. So, what do you do if you have a new F-150 parked in your driveway that is screaming, "Customize me"? You could add a grille and some other minor doodads, but would that be enough? No, it wouldn't. So, we are here today to show you how to put a little more distance between the bottom of the Ford and the ground.
Skyjacker has been lifting trucks since the '70s and is well known in the industry for lift systems for the 4x4 market. The company focused its attention to the two-wheel-drive market after receiving numerous calls inquiring about 2WD kits. And from those customer requests grew a wide array of choices for the '04-'07 Ford 2WD F-150 pickups. Skyjacker now offers three different performance suspension lift options: a 2-inch Leveling Kit with aluminum spacers, a 3-inch Coilover Shock Assembly, and a 6-inch Suspension System.
We decided to focus on the 6-inch setup, which just so happens to be the biggest one Skyjacker offers. The system is very complete. It includes Platinum Series coilover shock assemblies, CNC knuckles, high-clearance heavy-duty bracketry, and replacement SoftRide rear leaf springs. The whole install is straight forward and does not involve cutting, welding, or grinding. Altogether, this system maintains the factory geometric angles, alignment specifications, and structural strength.
You can do this installation in your garage with some very basic tools, a floor jack, a couple of jackstands, and some steady patience. The only unique items needed are a hydraulic press to remove the factory spindle and have it pressed into the new Skyjacker steering knuckle. You'll also need a coil spring compressor to disassemble and reassemble the front coilover shock assembly. Most competent shops will do these tasks for you for a small fee, but just make certain to do a little calling around to be sure you have one in your neighborhood before you start the teardown.
If you do it yourself, make sure the vehicle is on flat, level ground. Then, set the emergency brake and block the rear tires. Place the floor jack under the lower control arm's front crossmember and raise the vehicle. Place jackstands under the framerails, behind the front wheelwells, then lower the frame onto the stands. Of course, all this jacking and stand work can be avoided with the use of a lift, much like we used.
What's In The Box?
Skyjacker provides everything needed to raise the F-150 6 inches, except the tools. All the brackets are powdercoated in a black finish-ours is a display kit, so it is red. For the front, you will get a set of Platinum Series Front Coilover Shocks and Knuckles. The shocks are high-pressure nitrogen gas-charged to ensure proper control, and the knuckles have more material in the critical stress points for improved durability. Out back, Skyjacker provides either SoftRide replacement rear springs or rear add-a-leaves. We chose to get the whole spring pack assembly for a more balanced kit.
Part One: Front Installation
Remove the front tires, using a 22mm socket. It will not be necessary to remove the brake line from the caliper, so just remove the caliper from the rotor, using a 13mm wrench. You can reposition the caliper up and out of the way by securing it with a few sturdy zip ties until reassembly. Next, you remove the brake rotor. Disconnect the ABS line and the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle, using a 21mm socket. Use a ball joint separator, sometimes known as a pickle fork, to dislodge the tie rod from the knuckle. The backyard way is to strike the side of the knuckle to dislodge the tie rod end, but you have to be careful not to damage the tie rod. | 
Be careful on the next step because there is still tension on the front suspension. Place a jack or some sort of support under the lower A-arm, then disconnect the lower ball joint from the factory steering knuckle, using a 21mm socket. You may need a ball joint separator or just a few whacks with the hammer to pop it loose. Now disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle, using the same 21mm socket. Now the steering knuckle is free to be removed. | 
Here's an example of the 10,000-pound shop press we mentioned earlier. It will be necessary to have the factory spindle pressed out of the steering knuckle by a qualified technician. Once the spindle is pressed out, apply anti-seize compound and press the spindle into the new Skyjacker Steering Knuckle. These new knuckles exceed OEM specifications, and the CNC machining ensures accurate fitment and correct steering geometry. |
Disconnect the front sway bar from the truck by removing the endlink and frame mount hardware. Remove the lower strut mount bolt from the lower A-arm, using a 1-3/16- and 1-1/16-inch socket. Disconnect the three upper strut mount bolts from the frame, using a 15mm wrench. | 
Remove the lower A-arm mounting bolts from the frame to remove the arm. This system retains the factory rear crossmember.Thenew Skyjacker Rear Crossmember Brackets attach to the factory crossmember locations, using the provided hardware. These brackets will attach where the factory A-arm used to be, using the 18x150mm bolts, washers, and nuts. Remember to insert the crush sleeves between the factory A-arm mount with the 18mm bolts. | 
Skyjacker's unique design features a high-clearance front crossmember. The front crossmember spans the distance from driver side to passenger side, and follows the curve of the factory crossmember. The arched design gives you more ground clearance. Engineered into the design is a built-in center brace that bolts right into the OE crossmember. This anchors the two crossmembers together-OE and Skyjacker-and it adds strength and rigidity. Before installing the Skyjacker Front Crossmember, insert the Crush Sleeve into the front framerail. |