 Part One: The Front End Here...  Part One: The Front End Here is a shot of the cruddy front suspension, right before it was all torn off and freshened up with some black paint. |  The tubular StrongArm control...  The tubular StrongArm control arms come complete with ball joints and bushings, and bolt into the stock location. The upper arms have been designed to optimize ball joint angle and camber adjustment, while the lowers have been designed to optimize ball joint angle and caster adjustment. |  There is a flat plate that...  There is a flat plate that bolts over the spring area of the frame to provide the upper mount for the Firestone air spring. The supplied shock bracket lines up with existing holes on the frame; use the bracket as a template to drill the remaining holes. The optional dual-adjustable billet shock was used in this installation to get the best possible ride quality and handling performance. |
 The new MuscleBar sway bar...  The new MuscleBar sway bar uses the OEM sway bar holes to locate the new mounting brackets. The clamshell bracket was used as a template to drill the new holes. |  The PosiLink endlinks are...  The PosiLink endlinks are a significant upgrade over the traditional bolt-and-bushing style of endlink, which are prone to bind, wear, and eventually break. The ball-and-socket-style PosiLink endlinks promote more positive transfer of motion resistance through the control arms. |  Part Two: The Rear End The...  Part Two: The Rear End The stock C10 uses a traditional leaf spring rear suspension, which is good for carrying loads but a compromise for handling, cornering, and lowering. You will need to remove the bed for proper access to the rear suspension and framerails. |
 Here is what you will need...  Here is what you will need to retain before installing the kit: just the rearend. The springs and shocks can go in the scrap pile. And if you don't feel right about scrapping old parts, take them to the swap meet and sell them. |  Step one is to mark the area...  Step one is to mark the area of the frame for the notch. Existing holes will index the supplied template to show the exact location of the cuts for the bolt-on C-notch. |  Once the area was cut out,...  Once the area was cut out, the notch assembly was lined up with the existing holes. You can use this bracket to drill the rest of them. The AirBar C-notch assembly incorporates the upper air spring mount and the new Panhard bar mount to eliminate installation guesswork |
 With the C-notches fit loosely...  With the C-notches fit loosely on the framerails, the upper shock crossmember was installed, and the entire assembly was tightened to form a strong unit. |  The AirBar clamshell was then...  The AirBar clamshell was then assembled around the OEM leaf spring pad. This assembly provided the mounting points for the four-link bars, the lower shock mounts, and the lower air spring mounts. |  The front leaf spring mount...  The front leaf spring mount was removed, and this AirBar four-link bracket was bolted into its place. Keep in mind the factory mount is held in with big rivets, so you will need a grinder to get them out. The four-link bars are adjustable but come pre-assembled to the correct length, so there is no guesswork needed to set your pinion angle. |
 When installing the upper...  When installing the upper portion of the axle clamshell assembly, be sure to move the OEM brake line for proper clearance. Typically, you will not need to remove this line; just pull it away from the axle so it is not crushed during assembly. |  This billet aluminum Panhard...  This billet aluminum Panhard bar bracket was bolted to the rearend, optimizing the mounting point for the new lowered ride height. Be sure to use the supplied longer Grade-8 bolts to attach this bracket. A new "L" tab is also provided to remount the brake line. | |