Part Two: Finish It Off
Editor's note: Because this really isn't a story on how to paint, we are going to fast-forward through John adding color to the gate. John did state he prefers to use Sikkens products when spraying custom stuff. Here are some shots of the parts after the paintwork. Once painted, the tailgate is ready for a Plexiglas outer cover and wiring for lighting.
1. A piece of 3/16-inch-thick Plexiglas was cut to cover the hole. it was made slightly larger than the opening in the outer skin. | 
2. Using a heat lamp and a gun to soften the Plexiglas allowed us to match the curve of the tailgate skin. | 
3. A clear silicone caulking was used to attach the Plexiglas to the back side of the tailgate skin. |
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4. Foam tape was used to make a gasket in between the Plexiglas and the license plate box. This will help to keep moisture out and reduce noise. | 
5. To illuminate the plate, we attached an lED strip to the outer skin, using silicone (inset) and routed the wiring down through the bottom of the tailgate. |
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6. The license plate fits nice and snug inside the newly painted box bracket. | 
7. The box assembly was installed in the gate and screwed to the welded tabs that were fabricated earlier. Also pictured is John Schnorbus, the owner of the truck. You have to love when the owner of the truck shows up to help. |
8. Before putting the whole truck back together, we tested the license plate light wiring circuit. Once we knew it was working properly, we tapped into the pigtail from the OEM wiring harness. That way, we can unplug it to remove the gate. | | |
The Final Word
Here is the plate setup, once everything is complete. As you can see, it looks slick, and because the way John designed it, you can still change your annual registration stickers. John said, in total, this job will set you back about $1,000 in his shop, but you'll need to talk to your body guy for his prices.