4. We mixed up enough body filler to cover a 24x18-inch area over the door handle and gave it about 10 minutes to cure-just enough to start sanding. | 
5. Using 80-grit sandpaper, we sanded the filler down far enough to find any imperfections in the doorskin that resulted from welding. | 
6. We applied a second coat of filler called a glaze coat. This polyester finishing putty is ideally suited for filling and skimcoating bodywork, pinholes, grind marks, low spots up to 1/8 inch in depth, and other surface imperfections. After 20 minutes of cure time, we rattled-canned it with black, sandable guidecoat (inset). |
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7a. Starting with 150-grit paper on a long block, we sanded in a cross pattern until the guidecoat was completely sanded away | 
7b. Using your hand, you would be able to feel any imperfections left after sanding. It may be necessary to apply a second coat of glaze putty and then sand before spraying primer. We were in really good shape and ready for primer. |
8. Using Alsa's highbuild urethane primer surfacer, we sprayed a quick tack coat and let it dry about 5 minutes before applying four more coats, building up the surface. | 
9. The next step is to apply a guidecoat and sand the primer as though it's body filler using 220-grit paper and a long board in a cross pattern. Once the guidecoat is gone, more should be applied and, this time, 320-grit sandpaper used for sanding. Repeat this step one more time using 400-grit paper. | 
10. When all this is done, the door will be straight and ready for paint. |
Final Step: Opening The Door
To install the door-popper mechanism, it's necessary to find a spot in the door that is out of the way of any moving parts. In most cases it will be in the lower part of the door below the door latch. Connect the power lead to the door solenoid before installing.
1. Now that the solenoid was tight and in place, we measured the distance between the loop on the solenoid itself and the door-latch release lever. We added 1/8 inch to the total for slack and attached the pull cable. We took our time and made sure to securely fasten the aluminum crimp. | 
2. We opted to use the factory alarm/keyless entry system to activate our solenoid. Before we could do this, we had to select another function of the door-lock system. even though we disabled the door locks, we want the doors to lock when the truck is moving and not unlock when the truck is stopped because it will trigger the door solenoid and open the door. (Refer to your owner's manual about this function.) | 
3. With our lock option taken care of, we followed the wiring directions that were supplied with our kit, using the power lead that was used for the door locks instead of running a separate power wire. We tested the operation of our door before reinstalling all door parts. Working backward, we reassembled the door and tested the window, rearview mirror, and all accessory functions. |