I'll admit it: I'm lazy. Real lazy as a matter of fact. Regardless, I do have standards: I won't let another soul wash a single vehicle of mine, won't let anyone change my oil, and unless it's just something entirely out of my realm of expertise (which doesn't say a whole lot), I do my own servicing whenever possible. That includes the dreaded brake job.
First and foremost, it's probably a good thing if you're familiar with basic handtools. Beyond that, stocking up on a few specialty brake tools, such as those from Lisle and/or Powerbuilt, is highly recommended. Additionally, you'll need a good set of jackstands, a reliable jack, as well as an impact (either 3/8- or 1/2-inch drive), a can of Brakleen (or equivalent), high-temp bearing grease, and maybe a pair of gloves or two. Product-wise, well, that all depends on how much you value your life and the lives of those who travel in your truck. Not too worried? Then stick with the chain-store cheapies and a simple turning of the rotors. But if you want your binders to bind, then open the purse strings a bit more, dig a bit deeper, and spend the coin on quality components like EBC Brakes' Turbo Groove rotors and Sport Formula brake pads. You won't regret it. More than likely you'll pat yourself on the back after you bed those pads into the rotors and see how much more responsive and efficient your truck's brakes are.
Along with the typical R&R'ing of pads and rotors, there are a few possible pitfalls you should be prepared for, first of which are the wheel bearings. Depending on the age of your truck, you might be in store for bearing replacement. Secondly, and again this will be determined by age and use of your truck, there's always the slight possibility of discovering a worn-out brake caliper. Beyond that, anytime you perform maintenance on your brake system, fully inspect each and every component from the master cylinder to the booster, wheel cylinders (if applicable) to flex lines. One faulty component can affect the whole system.
Unless you're the heaviest of leadfoots, most new trucks won't require rotor replacement for the first few brake jobs. That said, some newer trucks aren't always equipped with the best brakes, and once you throw in 20-inch (or larger) wheels, new rotors might become necessary. For all intents and purposes, EBC Brakes' Turbo Groove slotted rotors and Sport Formula (aka Greenstuff) premium pads are perfect replacements as well as upgrades for larger-wheel applications.
1.Along with simple handtools, the basic brake job also requires a specialty tool or two, such as the invaluable caliper piston compressor from Powerbuilt, which can be found in most popular chain stores. Beyond that, a pneumatic impact wrench comes in handy as well. The paper shown is actually the rotor wrapping. It served as a grease and debris catcher during the process. | 
2.We all know how vital wheel-lock keys are-and what a pain it is trying to remove a wheel without one! Unless you're proficient with a TIG welder, removing key lugs without the key is, well, a job in itself. |
3.If you're still just doing a pad swap, be sure to thoroughly inspect your truck's rotors. My feet are quite sensitive, and before I installed the new EBC parts I noticed a gradually increasing pulsation in the brake pedal. Cracks on the braking surface of the left-side rotor revealed a warped situation. If you run into this, don't even bother surfacing-replace. | 
4a.Unless you're dealing with "floating" calipers, removal of typical fixed rotors is done simply by undoing two through-bolts from the backside as shown. |
4b.And unless you're up for a full bleeding job, DON'T disconnect the flex lines-just hang the calipers aside with zip ties or wire until you're ready to reinstall. | 
5.Once you pop out the old pads (remember to save any alignment tabs/springs/clips), inspect the caliper for any excessive wear or damage, especially around the piston boot. Moisture or damp brake-dust sludge are bad signs. |
6.Most domestics I've dealt with have the basic spindle-nut-mounted rotors. Simply remove the dust cap, cotter pin, and spindle nut and slide the rotor off the spindle shaft. If you feel a little resistance from the rotor, it's just the inner bearing's snug fit. Wiggle the rotor off; don't force it. | 
7.The inner wheel bearing is captured by a dust seal. Since you won't be reusing it, remove with a flat screwdriver or small prybar as shown. |
8.Once you've got both the inner and outer bearings out of the old rotor, clean thoroughly and inspect for excess wear (evident by bluish discoloration on the rollers) or damage such as a smashed cage, which is often the result of poor removal technique. | 
9.One specialty tool I do not use is a bearing greaser. Nope, the good-old palm method works just fine. Load up one palm with an ample amount of grease (I prefer Red Line CV-2), and with the other hand drag the bearing against your palm with a decent amount of pressure until grease comes out the opposite side. Works every time. |