PART FOUR: FRONT SWAY BAR
1. We removed the original front antisway bar from the vehicle. The new Belltech antisway bar kit will replace the pivot bushings and pivot-bushing brackets. | 
2. We made sure to thoroughly lubricate the inside of the new polyurethane bushings using the grease provided with the kit. We then attached the bushings on the Belltech antisway bar so that they aligned with the factory mounting locations, using the factory antisway bar as a reference. We installed the new Belltech antisway bar onto the chassis in the reverse order of removal and aligned the slotted holes in the brackets with their original mounting holes. The hardware was loosely threaded into place. The bar needs to be installed so that the ends pass above the steering tie rods. | 
3. We retained the factory end links and threaded them on by hand. We then checked to see if the sway bar needed any lateral adjustments and also checked the other components for possible interference. Using a 10mm socket, we tightened all of the hardware and torqued the bracket and end-link hardware to 19 lb-ft. |
Part Five: Rear Sway Bar
1a. We held the sway bar up | 
1b. to the axle and placed the U-bolts, saddles, and bushing support plates around the axle in the area where they will mount | 
2a. Next, we lubricated the inside of the new polyurethane bushings using the grease provided. The bar was then inserted from under the vehicle and positioned behind the axle with the bar ends pointed rearward and angled up. While holding the U-bolt with one hand, we attached the antisway-bar bushing clamp with the other and loosely threaded the hardware into place (the same was done to the other side) |
2b. We centered the bar from side to side and horizontally on the axle then tightened the U-bolts to the axle. | 
3. The end links were then attached to the bar end holes beneath the shock mounts. We installed the new end-link bolts with the cupped washers and grommets from above so that the heads faced up and the locknuts were located at the bottom. We threaded the locknuts on by hand. It's a good idea to install both sides before the nuts are tightened. We used a 9/16-inch wrench and 9/16-inch socket to tighten the end-link hardware. | 
4. With the vehicle's weight resting on the axle and making sure that the sway bar was level, we marked with a scribe where the end-link bracket was to be mounted. Then we ground off the coating on the frame. Instead of drilling holes in the frame, we opted to weld ours to the frame. |
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5. Once the end-link tabs were welded in and had cooled off, we finished tightening all hardware and torqued the bolts to 20 lb-ft. | |
The Final Word
Once everything was tightened down and aligned, it was time to go play. I couldn't even wait to get the rims and tires bolted up. Right out of the gate, the truck felt tighter and is surprisingly nimble and easy to maneuver, and at speeds over 80 mph that floating feeling which most pickup owners are used to was gone-the truck was one with the road. In the canyons, the difference was even more apparent because the truck handled flat with improved steering response and a newfound willingness to carve the corners at much higher speeds. Overall, it drove more like a sports car than a truck: a slightly firm yet totally comfortable ride.