2007 Chevrolet Colorado - 20 Inch Wheels and Aftermarket Brakes - The Wheel Deal

1. The first part is the machining of the new bolt pattern. The lug seat needed to move 2 mm out from the center of the wheel. Adam of MC Motorsports set up the drill for the 6x139mm bolt pattern. To retain strength, the hole was drilled just far enough into the wheel for the slug to be properly set for the new bolt pattern.

2. You can see that after the holes are drilled, they are slightly oval. No big deal. Our wheels are powdercoated black, so a quick touch-up with gloss black paint and no one's the wiser. If I had a non-powdercoated wheel, I would sand it down a bit to get rid of the scratches and use a rotary tool to polish them to match the wheel.

3. Here is the steel slug that will be set into the wheel. It will not only provide the new hole for each of the six lug nuts, but it also adds strength to the wheel. A hammer and punch was used to set the slugs in place.

4.Once all six were in place, the bolt pattern was checked for accuracy. 6x139mm-a perfect match. Now the second part of the machining can be done.

5.In order for the wheel to fit over the hub of the Colorado, the center needed to be honed out to 100 mm. A single 1mm-deep cut was made in the wheel and mic'd for accuracy before the final cut was made.

6.This is where it gets fun. As the annular cutter digs in, metal shavings go flying-everywhere-but it is fast.

7. Here is a look at the wheel once the modifications were complete. Look close and you'll see the slug in place. In less than a day, our wheels were modified and ready to bolt up.

1.Semon started by disconnecting the ABS sensor located just above the spring perch. To remove the caliper from the knuckle, he removed the two 14mm bolts. Before the caliper was removed however, Semon loosened the brake line and hung the caliper from the frame to cut down on loss of brake fluid. The two 14mm bolts were threaded back into place, as we will have to use them later on in the reassembly.

2.Four 14mm bolts hold the hub and rotor assembly to the knuckle, and they needed to be removed from the backside of the knuckle. Then, we were able to remove the assembly from the truck altogether.

3.Semon removed the six 12mm bolts securing the rotor to the hub. To get the rotor free from the hub, he had to index the rotor to match the slots.

4.The new rotor was put on the same way the old one was taken off and secured to the hub with the supplied hardware and torqued to 55 lb-ft.

5.Before Semon reinstalled the hub assembly, he bolted the caliper-mounting bracket to the inboard side of the knuckle with the recesses facing out, using the two 14mm bolts that were saved earlier. Bolts were torqued to 85 lb-ft.

6.The ABS sensor was then fed back through the knuckle, and the hub assembly was secured. The ABS sensor was secured to the knuckle and control arm and plugged back in. To attach the new caliper to the mounting bracket, Semon used the supplied hardware, which includes spacers that are placed between the caliper and the mounting bracket. The caliper was secured to the knuckle with 9/16-inch bolts and lock washers. Semon then torqued the bolts to 85 lb-ft.

7a.The supplied brass blocks were installed into the calipers and tightened to an angle that would accept the factory flex hose

7b.Then, Semon removed the brake line from the old caliper and replaced the factory banjo bolt with the 3/8-inch supplied banjo bolts and copper washers. Semon torqued them to 20 lb-ft

8.There you have it. Can't wait to find out what these babies will do in the real world. Now onto the rear brakes.