Part Three: Applying Color
The paints John used for this project are Debeer/Valspar products he got from Gateway Coatings & Supply. They are urethane paints mixed with a hardener rated for a nonbaked booth at a temperature range of 64 to 95 degrees F-perfect for his location. When asked why he uses these particular products, John replied, "They're cost-effective urethanes with a full spectrum of colors for custom and collision refinishing."
1.The copper color Tim decided...
1.The copper color Tim decided on happened to be a three-stage paint, which needs a basecoat covered by a midcoat sealed up by a clear, much like a candy does. This is something to consider when choosing colors because three-stage candies and pearls are more difficult to spray and in turn might cost you more than a standard color.
2.After the basecoat flashed...
2.After the basecoat flashed off, John laid down the copper's midcoat. All parts and pieces are sprayed at the same time to keep the colors matching perfectly. If these are painted at different times, there is a slight chance of them having a different hue, but shooting it all at the same time keeps this from happening.
Part Four: Tape And Paint The Design
1.With the rendering from...
1.With the rendering from the HOK program at his side, John used blue fine-line tape to map out the design. Just like grocery bags at the supermarket, fine-line tape comes in two basic styles: paper and plastic. The best advice we offer here is to pick up a roll of each and see which one bends and turns better for you. In our experience, the 1/4-inch plastic (shown) is a good all-around fine-line tape that leaves a crisp edge. Close attention is paid to door edges by trimming tape in the center of a gap and pushing it in as much as possible. This leaves a much cleaner edge (inset).
2.To replicate the design...
2.To replicate the design on the other side of the truck, a pounce pattern is made. A large sheet of paper is secured to the truck, and a dark-colored crayon is rubbed over the areas with tape. Point-of-reference marks are made at any body line possible like the door edges, fender edges, taillights, body lines, etc. (inset). A lesser shop might skip this step and just lay out a close match on the other side. While this is quicker and less costly, there is a good chance the designs won't match.
3.The rubbing is removed from...
3.The rubbing is removed from the truck and laid on cardboard. A pounce wheel is used to follow the traced lines, punching tiny little holes in the paper. These holes let chalk dust pass through the paper and stick to the truck.
4.Using the reference marks...
4.Using the reference marks made on the previous side, the flipped pattern is placed on the opposite side of the truck and taped down thoroughly so it does not move. After the pattern is secure, rubbing the pounce bag lightly over the pattern allows the chalk dust to fall through the tiny holes. The pounce bag in this case happens to be a sock filled with some snap-line chalk (inset); you can also use baby powder.
5.Here is what the pounce...
5.Here is what the pounce pattern leaves: a nice outline to follow. Even though the pattern is a perfect mirror image of the other side, minor adjustments to the tape will be necessary to produce the best results.
6.After the pattern is completely duplicated in fine-line, the areas that are not to be sprayed with the next color are filled in with tape. John states, "Be patient. Accuracy is the key in this step to prevent unwanted stripe color on your main body color." After the fill-in is complete, the roof and all other areas are covered.