Buffing Tools
Here's the stuff you need for the first step in the buffing process: a wool pad and compound. The Ultra-Cut Compound features super micro-abrasive technology that provides fast cutting and removes 1200-grit-or-finer sanding marks. The wool pad isn't just a fuzzy-looking Frisbee. No, this is an aggressive cutting tool that generates a lot of friction. Not only did Meguiar's make it from 100-percent wool, it's also double-sided so you get twice the service life.
Part Two: Buff It! 1. Before...
Part Two: Buff It!
1. Before beginning the buffing process, you need to prep the pad. A few sprays of Final Inspection will hydrate the pad without overloading it with fluid and diluting the compound.
2. It doesn't matter if the...
2. It doesn't matter if the pad is new or old, you should use a cleaning spur to fluff up the wool fibers. The spur can also be used to remove excess compound during the process. You should spur the pad at least twice per panel. Mike set the buffer to 1,500 rpm for this step. The speed will be re-adjusted when we switch to the foam pad.
3. Mike applied the Ultra-Cut...
3. Mike applied the Ultra-Cut on the hood in a straight line parallel to his body. Then he brought the buffer in right to left, holding it at a 10-degree angle. Just as he gets to the compound, he pulls the trigger to start the buffer. Doing it this way cuts down on the amount of material slung everywhere and wasted. Mike says, "This is the 10-and-10 move. You want the material to hit the face of the pad at the 10 o'clock position about an inch from the perimeter of the pad."
4. Mike moved in a side-to-side...
4. Mike moved in a side-to-side motion with light to moderate pressure. After making a few passes, he stopped and checked his progress. If the paint is shiny, then the speed and pressure are good. If you can still see scratches, turn up the buffer 100 rpm more and make a few more passes. The amount of compound shown in the previous image was enough to do about a 6x14-inch area. While you don't want the area to be soaking wet with material, you also don't want it dry either. The compound will leave a very light, oily-looking haze on the paint. If that is not present, then it's too dry and needs a little more product.
5. The buffer is designed...
5. The buffer is designed to be used flat, so fight the urge to tip the buffer on edge. This will only increase the chances of creating swirls and/or burning the paint, which means too much heat was generated in one small area and the paint gets soft and smears.
6. After the wool pad and...
6. After the wool pad and Ultra-Cut treatment, it's time to remove the fine swirl marks left behind. To do this, Mike switched to a foam pad and Swirl Free polish. The polish is very unabrasive and is best applied with a foam finishing pad. The foam is less aggressive and is designed to remove fine swirls marks and create a high-gloss finish.
7. The same buffer was turned...
7. The same buffer was turned down to 1,300 rpm, and a foam-pad backing plate was attached. One nice thing about the Meguiar's setup is the backing plate has a small pin in the center to make sure you have the pad centered. This keeps the buffer balanced and prevents it from wobbling when you pull the trigger.
8. Just like with the wool...
8. Just like with the wool pad, the foam pad needs to be prepped with Final Inspection.
9. A little brush is used...
9. A little brush is used to clean the foam pad. The pad should also be cleaned at least twice per panel to produce the best results.
10. With the same 10-and-10...
10. With the same 10-and-10 motion, Mike started the second buffing phase. Only very light pressure is needed to polish out the swirl marks.
11. Mike dragged the buffer...
11. Mike dragged the buffer slowly in a front-to-back motion, watching the finish as he went along. Because this is the final stage, you'll be able to see the results as you go.
Final Word
After it was all said and done, the left side is now much, much smoother. Hopefully, with a little practice you too can get these results, but we would recommend practicing on something else before you try it on your ride just to get the feel of everything.
This three-part series should be all the info you need to achieve the slickest, shiniest paint on the block. Just remember to work in the shade, use quality products, and for Pete's sake, read the labels!