Last month, we ran a story on how to pluck a tired V-6 from the fenderwells of a 1989 S-10. The original engine had 170,000 miles on it, burned oil for breakfast, and fouled plugs for lunch. Basically it was well past needing to be fixed or replaced. The first part of this series mapped out the proper way to remove the engine and how to keep track of all the connections and wires. This episode will cover how to button up the new ATK remanufactured long block and set it back between the framerails. We'll also cover the initial start-up, getting the adjustments right, and some new parts from LMC Truck that will support the new 4.3L and make the engine compartment look factory fresh.
What's In The box?
The replacement 4.3L I picked up from ATK VEGE came fully sealed up with new gaskets, rear main seal, and tinwork preinstalled. The block was bored to standard, line honed, then the block and heads were 100-percent surfaced. Other features include a double-roller timing chain, brass freeze plugs, new cam bearings, and moly rings. The engine was hot-run tested at the ATK plant to check things like oil pressure, water temperature, and compression before it was shipped out.
Before You Begin: Pre Cleaning
Recycle Some Parts
1. Last month, I ended with...
1. Last month, I ended with the old engine coming out, so I'll be picking up right where I left off. The new 4.3L came as an assembled long block so there are a few things that need to be transferred over from the old engine like the intake manifold.
2. Since the manifold is held...
2. Since the manifold is held on with a bunch of special hardware, I used a piece of cardboard to hold each piece and wrote notes to help remember where it all went.
3. After cleaning the intake...
3. After cleaning the intake and a few other items in my friend Hank's hot water parts washer, I scrubbed the gasket area with a red Scotch-Brite pad. Then I masked off that surface along with any other holes and blasted the manifold in Hank's bead blast cabinet.