Last month, we ran a story on how to pluck a tired V-6 from the fenderwells of a 1989 S-10. The original engine had 170,000 miles on it, burned oil for breakfast, and fouled plugs for lunch. Basically it was well past needing to be fixed or replaced. The first part of this series mapped out the proper way to remove the engine and how to keep track of all the connections and wires. This episode will cover how to button up the new ATK remanufactured long block and set it back between the framerails. We'll also cover the initial start-up, getting the adjustments right, and some new parts from LMC Truck that will support the new 4.3L and make the engine compartment look factory fresh.
What's In The box?
The replacement 4.3L I picked up from ATK VEGE came fully sealed up with new gaskets, rear main seal, and tinwork preinstalled. The block was bored to standard, line honed, then the block and heads were 100-percent surfaced. Other features include a double-roller timing chain, brass freeze plugs, new cam bearings, and moly rings. The engine was hot-run tested at the ATK plant to check things like oil pressure, water temperature, and compression before it was shipped out.
Before You Begin: Pre Cleaning
Recycle Some Parts
1. Last month, I ended with the old engine coming out, so I'll be picking up right where I
2. Since the manifold is held on with a bunch of special hardware, I used a piece of cardb
3. After cleaning the intake and a few other items in my friend Hank's hot water parts was